Wiring a spotlight: the safe method, step by step
This article is also available in French: Brancher un spot

Cut the power at the consumer unit, check that there is no voltage with a tester, then identify the three conductors: brown live, blue neutral, green-yellow earth. A spotlight is connected as a spur off the existing supply, never by cutting the circuit. Allow two minutes per spotlight once the conductors have been identified.
How do you wire a spotlight, step by step?
Four actions are enough: cut, check, connect, restore power. The rest depends on what you want to see on the ceiling. Recessed LED downlights show their cut-out diameter and lamp base on every product page: you know before drilling whether the model fits the ceiling.
Cut the power then check for absence of voltage with a tester
- Circuit breaker: switch off the lighting circuit concerned, not just the wall switch
- Tester: check every conductor, including the earth, before touching the lampholder
- Labelling: note the circuit number on the consumer unit, you will come back to it when connecting
- People around: make sure nobody restores the power during the work
Wiring a spotlight in the ceiling: live, neutral and earth, in order
Strip the conductors over 8 to 10 mm, then connect brown to brown and blue to blue. The green-yellow goes to the earth terminal when the spotlight has one; on a double-insulated model, it stays isolated in a closed connector block. Tighten each terminal by hand, without marking the copper.
The connection is made before fixing: once the spotlight is clipped into its hole, the connector blocks are no longer accessible. This is the order we follow to install spotlights in the ceiling, whatever the model.
How do you wire a 220 V LED spotlight without a transformer?
It connects directly to the 230 V of the home. A GU10 or E27 spotlight needs neither a box nor a converter: two conductors, a lampholder, a tightening. On a survey of 88 references in our catalogue on 5 October 2026, the GU10 base accounts for 19 % of the product pages.
GU10 and E27, what connects directly
| Supply | Common bases | What it changes |
|---|---|---|
| Direct 230 V | GU10, E27, E14, G9 | No box to house, replaceable bulb |
| 12 V with transformer | G4, GU5 | Box to allow for in an accessible place |
The lampholder is chosen before the bulb. Our selection of GU10 bulbs covers warm whites as well as the more neutral 3000 K, and the base will stay with you for ten years.
When 12 V and its transformer remain the right answer
12 V still makes sense in wet zones, under a shower or in a steam room, and in very low ceilings where you bring your hand close to the light point. Our guide to wiring an LED transformer details where to house the box.
Another marker from the same survey, on 5 October 2026: 62 product pages out of 88 state an LED technology, i.e. 70 % of the survey. One product page in three therefore says nothing on this point, and it is the lampholder that decides.
Models with an integrated source, with no visible bulb, also connect without a box: the range of recessed LED bulbs 220V gathers these units.
Spotlights and downlights to wire, piece by piece
How do you wire spotlights in series or in parallel?
In parallel, without hesitation. Each spotlight receives its live and neutral from the same supply: if one fails, the others stay on. Series wiring, where the current passes through the spotlights one after another, cuts the whole line at the first fault.
How can I wire two spotlights together?
Two solutions: take both from the supply connector block, or run from the terminal of the first spotlight to the second. The second avoids crowding the conductors into a single connection. Our article on wiring spotlights in parallel details both cases.
Series wiring exists mainly on small decorative sets, where the effect matters more than reliability. A dedicated guide explains when to choose it: wiring spotlights in series.
The number of spotlights on one circuit, the limit that matters
Nobody can give it without reading your consumer unit. The answer lies in the conductor cross-section and in the rating of the circuit breaker protecting the circuit, not in a rule that applies everywhere.
- Circuit breaker: read its rating, that is what sets the ceiling
- Existing circuit: count the points already served, even those that no longer light up
- Cable cross-section: it limits the total length of the circuit
- Dimming: it requires a module compatible with the chosen spotlights
If doubt remains, our Google listing gathers feedback from customers supported on this type of decision, and it can be checked in one click.
Which cable to supply a spotlight, and how far to run it?
A lighting cable has three conductors and a cross-section that you read on the cable in place, often 1.5 mm². The cross-section decides the permissible length: too long, and the voltage drop is paid for in brightness as well as in heating. Check the cross-section of the circuit breaker concerned, do not assume it.
Wiring an outdoor spotlight, waterproofing before connection
Waterproofing is dealt with before the wires: cable gland, closed box, seals in place. A poorly protected outdoor spotlight does not fail on the day of installation, it fails at the third rain, when oxidation has done its work in the terminal.
- Cable gland: it stops water running back along the cable
- Junction box: closed and accessible, never buried in the insulation
- Ingress protection rating: it is chosen according to exposure, not according to style
Our selection of waterproof outdoor bulbs states the rating of each model, which avoids back and forth.
IP20, IP54, IP65: what our survey says
On the survey of 88 references in our catalogue on 5 October 2026, 94 % of product pages state IP20, against 5 % in IP54 and 1 % in IP65. The rating is therefore read before purchase, not after noticing marks on the lampholder.
Wiring a spotlight to a socket, is that done?
Yes for a piece of furniture, a display case or a lit shelf: plug and flexible cable, nothing is recessed, everything stays unpluggable. On a fixed ceiling point, the socket loses its purpose, as our article on wiring a ceiling lamp reminds. The sensor, for its part, is built into the spotlight or controlled by a dedicated switch, and the wiring remains the same.
If reading your consumer unit leaves doubt about the cable cross-section or the number of spotlights already connected, describe your installation in two lines: this is the kind of point that is settled in a minute with the right person in front of you, without dismantling anything to have your installation checked.
Where are you going to wire your spotlight?
How many spotlights, and at what spacing?
Allow one spotlight every 80 cm to 1 m for even light, setting the first line back 50 to 70 cm from the wall. A 20 m² room is handled with six to eight points. Ceiling height and wall colour shift these markers one way or the other.
How do you lay out spotlights in a room?
On a grid, never in a circle around a central point. The lines follow the direction of the room and the circulation axis, which avoids the patchy effect on the floor. The detail of the spacings is in our guide on the distance between ceiling spotlights.
- Perimeter: keep 50 to 70 cm from the wall to erase cast shadows
- Worktop: offset the line above the worktop rather than at the centre of the room
- Circulation: light the walkway, not the furniture
- Colour temperature: one warm white per room, 2700 K or 3000 K
In a kitchen, this line is set on the worktop, and a kitchen and dining room lighting project is drawn before the work, while everything is still open.
What lighting for a 20 m² room?
Six to eight spotlights of 6 to 8 W are enough for a living room with light walls, spread over two parallel lines. The ceiling height shifts this count more than one might think.
Our marker on the number of spotlights per m² lets you decide before drilling, rather than after the first coat of filler.
When the room is poorly suited to drilling, a LED ceiling light covers the same surface from a single point, with no grid to trace and no cut-out to negotiate.
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